Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

Improving Your Home’s Health – For over 15 years our RadonSeal® Permanent Concrete Sealer, DIY Crack Injection Kits, and basement waterproofing and radon mitigating products have proven to be the ideal solution for permanently waterproofing wet foundation walls, concrete floors and improving the overall health of your basement and home. Our unique, high-strength, basement waterproofing materials continue to be trusted by professionals and DIY homeowners alike.
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

For basement or foundation waterproofing, DampLock Masonry Waterproofing Paint is guaranteed to stop water. Recommended for above or below grade waterproofing, Damplock can withstand up to 15 psi of hydrostatic pressure and comes with a 15-year guarantee.
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

Tape a 1-foot-square piece of aluminum foil to the inside of your basement walls, and leave it in place for 24 hours. If there’s condensation on the outside of the foil, you have high humidity in your basement. Fix it with a portable room dehumidifier or a whole-house humidifier system instead of waterproofing products.If the foil has condensation on the inside surface (next to the wall), it may be the soil around your house is naturally damp from a high water table or poor soil drainage. In that case, waterproofing your basement walls can be useful. You can waterproof just your interior walls, which may solve the problem. Or you can waterproof your exterior walls, which is a better bet — but more costly.Here’s the scoop on the different types:
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

Combining RadonSeal With An Exterior Waterprooging Coating – RadonSeal is usually used in combination with an exterior waterproofing coating, which is required by building codes in most counties. Exterior coating bridges cracks, holes, or defects in the concrete. RadonSeal does the waterproofing job after the coating deteriorates. By neutralizing alkalis in concrete, it also greatly extends the life of the waterproofing coating.
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

In general, the lower the quality of concrete the higher the need to apply a waterproofing coating over RadonSeal. Unfilled cinder blocks and concrete blocks have only thin walls (1-1/4″) on either side of the hollow cores. Some have visible large pores. The most effective RadonSeal application is waterproofing both sides of the walls. But first, the concrete has to cure for 28 days, or 14 days for mortar in block walls. After applying RadonSeal, let the concrete dry out for at least 3 days before applying an exterior waterproofing coating.
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

This does not sound like it will work. If you are sure that the moisture is coming up from below, paint will not stop it, it will only seep under the paint and start making bubbles. DryLok is a good idea, but it isn’t made for the type of treatment a floor gets, I don’t believe it would stand up well even if you covered it with a good quality paint. I would re-test to make sure that it really is coming up from below, that is pretty unusual. On a very dry day when there is no moisture anywhere tape a larger piece of plastic on the floor (at least a foot square) and use duct tape to seal all the sides down. If it is indeed coming from below then you have a pretty serious drainage issue, because it would take water a long time to wick up through concrete. Hopefully this isn’t the issue and then you can paint the floor. As a side note, they make concrete paint that is cheaper than the garage floor paint and you can get it in many more colors. I think this would be preferred in a basement. Check out your local Sherwin Williams. Good Luck
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

Try a French drain (or perimeter drain) for serious water issues. A French drain consists of a continuous system of piping, running beneath the floor of the basement and along the entire perimeter of the basement. Installing a French drain is similar to installing a sump, but requires cutting and removing an approximately 12″ wide strip of basement floor along the entire perimeter of the basement, digging a 12″ deep trench, filling it with coarse gravel surrounding the drain pipe, then re-pouring a concrete floor to cover it all up. A French drain will always include a sump and pump for removing any water which gets into the drain system.
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Basement Floor Waterproofing Paint

Tar Waterproofing Is Brittle – Tar waterproofing has absolutely no “give” and cracks as the concrete constantly contracts and expands, and as the house settles. Similarly, tar paper or pargeting (a layer of mortar) on block walls are inelastic and crack.
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Tips Before beginning a serious basement remodeling project, observe your basement carefully during heavy rainstorms. If you can last a year of weather without any water leaks, you’re probably going to be OK in the future (so long as you keep those gutters clean and take care of your foundation!). Note that salt & lime deposits form on concrete blocks as water leaks through them (white staining). This MUST be completely removed before any blocker is used. This is the most common reason why the sealing fails. This is generally done by dousing the wall with muriatic acid and scrubbing. Follow this by rinsing the area very liberally with a water hose, then vacuum it off the floor. This will normally take several applications. You will see the muriatic acid react with the deposits on the wall. When installing a sump pump, be sure to refer to local plumbing codes. Most installations will require a one-way valve to prevent water from coming into the sump through the outlet. Battery backup sump pumps are available. Search for “basement watchdog.” These are great for sumps that have a steady flow of water into them since you’ll know you have a backup if/when the power goes out or the main pump breaks. The construction of a new house is the time to properly seal the house for life. The old standby of plastic wrap and Styrofoam sheeting to protect does work. But it is almost always destroyed during the back-filling of the foundation, causing it to leak. This way of sealing NO LONGER meets the international building code, along with many state, country, or city building codes. The makers of DRYLOK suggest coating the exterior of the foundation with DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer. Remember the waterproofer is only as good and as sound as the surface. Protect the surface with a wrap before backfilling to protect from rocks and equipment. Regardless of what type of water protection you try to use, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Common misapplications of Xypex come from not following the directions, or more specifically, contractors being too cheap to do the job correctly. Xypex is at least a two stage system, with the second applications using a thinner, cheaper coating of different composition. Many contractors are trying to offset the cost of Xypex VS Drylok by only applying the FINISHING coats. When cutting into concrete, be sure to tape plastic drop cloths from ceiling to floor to enclose the affected area. When you apply Drylok to an interior block wall expansion joint. The block is hollow. The Drylok will stop the seepage temporary. The block will fill up with water causing bowing walls, mortem separation and wall bowing. Don’t try and use these inferior products to seal the expansion joint. It will cost you a boat load of money later , when your foundation starts to cave. This is called a negative pressure. Dig up the outside and apply a positive pressure membrane to stop hydrostatic pressure.
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Before beginning a serious basement remodeling project, observe your basement carefully during heavy rainstorms. If you can last a year of weather without any water leaks, you’re probably going to be OK in the future (so long as you keep those gutters clean and take care of your foundation!). Note that salt & lime deposits form on concrete blocks as water leaks through them (white staining). This MUST be completely removed before any blocker is used. This is the most common reason why the sealing fails. This is generally done by dousing the wall with muriatic acid and scrubbing. Follow this by rinsing the area very liberally with a water hose, then vacuum it off the floor. This will normally take several applications. You will see the muriatic acid react with the deposits on the wall. When installing a sump pump, be sure to refer to local plumbing codes. Most installations will require a one-way valve to prevent water from coming into the sump through the outlet. Battery backup sump pumps are available. Search for “basement watchdog.” These are great for sumps that have a steady flow of water into them since you’ll know you have a backup if/when the power goes out or the main pump breaks. The construction of a new house is the time to properly seal the house for life. The old standby of plastic wrap and Styrofoam sheeting to protect does work. But it is almost always destroyed during the back-filling of the foundation, causing it to leak. This way of sealing NO LONGER meets the international building code, along with many state, country, or city building codes. The makers of DRYLOK suggest coating the exterior of the foundation with DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer. Remember the waterproofer is only as good and as sound as the surface. Protect the surface with a wrap before backfilling to protect from rocks and equipment. Regardless of what type of water protection you try to use, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Common misapplications of Xypex come from not following the directions, or more specifically, contractors being too cheap to do the job correctly. Xypex is at least a two stage system, with the second applications using a thinner, cheaper coating of different composition. Many contractors are trying to offset the cost of Xypex VS Drylok by only applying the FINISHING coats. When cutting into concrete, be sure to tape plastic drop cloths from ceiling to floor to enclose the affected area. When you apply Drylok to an interior block wall expansion joint. The block is hollow. The Drylok will stop the seepage temporary. The block will fill up with water causing bowing walls, mortem separation and wall bowing. Don’t try and use these inferior products to seal the expansion joint. It will cost you a boat load of money later , when your foundation starts to cave. This is called a negative pressure. Dig up the outside and apply a positive pressure membrane to stop hydrostatic pressure.

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