Sliding Garage Doors
Practical, Versatile, and Familiar Steeped in tradition, sliding garage doors and interior sliding barn doors have been in use for centuries. The familiarity, practicality and space-saving design of sliding barn doors make them a great solution for many projects. Whether the application is a barn, garage, interior space, or studio, our horizontal sliding doors will fit the bill. Sliding Barn Door Hardware Confused about sliding barn door hardware? We’ve got you covered with our sliding kits for Bi-Parting, Single sliding, and Bypass applications. We make ********* hardware for Interior sliding doors and Exterior sliding garage doors. We are always ready to help you select a fitting door design for your project. Want something a little different? RCD has an experienced design staff to help you design the ******* door. Read on to learn more about sliding doors. (Please note that all of our door designs, options & accessories are applicable to our sliding wood doors.)
Sliding Garage Doors
Sliding Door Operation Bi-Parting Doors A pair of doors sliding open from the center is considered a Bi-Parting door. The doors slide in the same plane (on the same track) and contact each other in the middle when closed. Each leaf can be automatically operated with our AOSB Bi-Part Sliding Automatic Opener. Single Sliding Doors In a single sliding application, one door leaf slides to the side of the opening. Usually, two door leaves are splined (joined) together to slide as a single unit. Operate this door automatically with the AOSG Single Sliding Automatic Opener. Bypassing Doors Doors that slide in different planes (separate tracks) are said to bypass each other. Track may be mounted on the face of the building, or within the confines of the jamb. Only the innermost leaf can be automatically operated with our AOSG Single Sliding Automatic Opener. Bi-Folding Doors Doors that hinge to each other can fold open in a variety of ways. 2, 3, and 4-leaf combinations can be tailored for your unique situation. Smooth track and glide wheels allow even large doors to open easily. No automatic openers available.
Sliding Garage Doors
Steeped in tradition, sliding garage doors and interior sliding barn doors have been in use for centuries. The familiarity, practicality and space-saving design of sliding barn doors make them a great solution for many projects. Whether the application is a barn, garage, interior space, or studio, our horizontal sliding doors will fit the bill.
Confused about sliding barn door hardware? We’ve got you covered with our sliding kits for Bi-Parting, Single sliding, and Bypass applications. We make ********* hardware for Interior sliding doors and Exterior sliding garage doors. We are always ready to help you select a fitting door design for your project. Want something a little different? RCD has an experienced design staff to help you design the ******* door.
Instructions The panels you build will likely vary in height from the 105-1/2-in-tall examples shown. To calculate panel heights for your garage, ***** install the box rails and mounting brackets on an exposed joist according to the hardware manufacturer’s instructions. Insert a roller assembly in the box rail and measure from the bottom plate on the roller to the floor in several locations. Then subtract 1-in to 2-in (for clearance, depending on the evenness of the floor) for the overall panel height. Use this to calculate the length of the stiles and map out the number and spacing of the slats. The 48-in width of these panels lets you make slats simply by cutting 8-ft boards in half, but you can customize the width of the sliding panels by changing the horizontal board lengths. (For wider panels, purchase longer lumber that can be cut in half to minimize waste.) Be sure customized panels adhere to the weight limits of the mounting hardware. Assemble the Panels **** 1 Cut the four vertical stiles (A) to length (Sliding Garage Panels Project Diagram). Cut the wide (B) and narrow (C) slats and center slats (D) to equal lengths according to the Sliding Panel Project Diagram. Sand all parts with 120-grit and 180-grit sandpaper. Then cut the roller mounting board (E), top trim boards (F), and bottom trim boards (G) to length. Apply one coat of primer and two coats of paint to all parts. (We used Valspar exterior semigloss in Ivory Lace (#7003-6) for five of the wide slats and four of the narrow slats, and Lyndhurst Mushroom (#3007-9C) for the four vertical stiles, eight alternating center slats, roller mounting board, top trim boards, and bottom trim boards.) Good to Know You’re cutting a lot of boards to the same length and any errors will leave gaps between panels. Save time and increase accuracy by clamping a stop block to your miter saw fence or table saw fence 48-in from the blade for consistent cuts. **** 2 From cardboard scraps, cut pairs of screw location templates. (Screws won’t show from the front, but these will keep you from accidentally driving one screw on top of another.) Cut all pairs of templates 3-1/2-in wide to the following lengths: 3-1/2-in, 5-1/2-in, 7-1/4-in, and 9-1/4-in. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner across each template and measure along the line 1-1/2-in from both corners. Mark these as your screw locations by punching through the cardboard with a nail or scratch awl. Then, from 1-in x 4-in wood scraps, cut two spacers 5-in long. **** 3 To give your clamps clearance, place two parallel 2-in x 4-in x 8-ft spacer boards edge-down on a floor about 6-ft apart. Add shims to make the boards level. Then lay the two vertical stiles (A) on the spacers 32-in apart and use a carpenter’s square to make the ends flush (Sliding Panel Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Measure down 10-in from the top end of each stile and clamp a wide slat (B) in position. One end should be flush with the outside edge of a stile; the other end should overhang the opposite stile by 9-in. (We’re showing how to make the left panel in a pair. To make the right panel, follow the same instructions, but place the slat overhang on the opposite side). **** 4 Use the 7-1/4-in template to mark the screw locations where the slat covers the stiles, drill 7/64-in pilot holes, and drive the screws flush with the wood surface. Good to Know You’ll need to drill dozens of pilot holes for this project, so consider investing in a set of drill bit depth-stop collars. Otherwise, wrap the bit with tape 1-1/4-in from the tip of the bit. **** 5 Using scraps of 3/4-in-***** wood on edge as spacers, position the second wide slat (B) below the top one. Mark, drill, and screw the slat in place. Repeat for the remaining wide slat and the three narrow slats (C) on the upper section. **** 6 After adding the ***** three wide slats (B), double-check that the stiles (A) are still parallel by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. If both measurements are the same, the stiles are parallel. **** 7 Place two 5-in-long wood spacers below the narrow slat (C) to position the ***** of the center slats (D). Mark, drill, and screw a center slat to the stiles. Repeat for the second center slat. Use the 5-in spacer to position and fasten the narrow slat. Then add two wide slats 3/4-in apart. **** 8 Clamp a 9-1/4-in-wide top slat (F) to the underside of the stiles with the top edge flush with the stile ends. Drill and screw the top slat to the stiles, taking care to not drill through the slat on what will be the front of the panel. (Screwing this part in place from the back side keeps the screw heads from showing after you install the panel.) **** 9 Position the roller-mounting board (E) upside down on the stiles with the top edge flush with the stile ends and mark the stile edge locations. Then place marks 1/4-in away from those marks toward the center of the board. Mark, drill, and bolt the roller hardware to the roller-mounting board (We replaced the bolts included with the rollers. By using 1/4-in x 1-1/2-in bolts, we were able to accommodate the top slats (F) that hide the roller-mounting board (E) and its fasteners). Flip the board again and screw it to the panel stiles. **** 10 Clamp the center slats (D) in position on the undersides of the stiles using a 1-in x 4-in scrap to space it from the top center slats. Drill and screw them in place. Clamp a bottom slat (G) to the underside of the stiles with the bottom edge flush with the stile ends and screw it in place. Screw a second pair of stiles (A) to each of the slats using the cardboard guides flipped to their opposite faces to avoid driving a screw on top of another screw (Drawing 2). Then cut the bottom spacers (H) to fit and screw them in place. **** 11 Screw a second pair of stiles (A) to each of the slats using the cardboard guides flipped to their opposite faces to avoid driving a screw on top of another screw (Drawing 2). Then cut the bottom spacers (H) to fit and screw them in place. **** 12 Drill and screw three center slats (D), a top slat (F), and bottom slat (G) to the inside pair of stiles (A) to complete the panel (Drawing 3). Repeat for the second panel, making sure the overhang falls on the opposite stile. Add door aligners 1-in from the bottom of each panel (Drawing 4) and insert the rollers into the box rails according to the manufacturer’s instructions.